[Explore Shikoku, Meet the Locals: Part 3] Beyond the spectacular scenery. Touring geological attractions and yokai (spirits) at Tokushima Prefecture’s Oboke Gorge
I traveled to Oboke in Miyoshi City, Tokushima Prefecture. After partaking in local food and enjoying the spectacular views of the sheer rock face and the Yoshino River from a sightseeing boat, explore the origins of Oboke with a geo-guide. Another joy of this trip is coming across local yokai legends. Not only was I able to enjoy the scenery, but also the depths Oboke has to offer.
Welcomed by Yokai! JR Oboke Station, the Gateway to Oboke Tourism
When you arrive at the station, the first thing you see is yokai all around the station. At the station is a wooden statue of Konaki-Jijii (The Crying Old Man), decorations with yokai motifs, and a model of iya-no-kazurabashi, suspension bridges made using vines. The Oboke atmosphere is fully present from the moment you arrive.
From the platform, you can see the train running through the mountains and the valley, imparting the travel spirit. It’s time to explore the charms of Oboke.
From the platform, you can see the train running through the mountains and the valley, imparting the travel spirit. It’s time to explore the charms of Oboke.
Welcomed by Yokai! JR Oboke Station, the Gateway to Oboke Tourism
When you arrive at the station, the first thing you see is yokai all around the station. At the station is a wooden statue of Konaki-Jijii (The Crying Old Man), decorations with yokai motifs, and a model of iya-no-kazurabashi, suspension bridges made using vines. The Oboke atmosphere is fully present from the moment you arrive. From the platform, you can see the train running through the mountains and the valley, imparting the travel spirit. It’s time to explore the charms of Oboke.
Seek out the Tastes of Oboke and Iya at “Boke Mart” in Front of the Station
Located just a short walk from the station, Boke Mart is a popular supermarket in the area.
It stocks Iya soba, tofu, konnyaku and other ingredients unique to Oboke and Iya. One of the most eye-catching items is “bokeage.” It’s a big piece of aburaage (fried tofu), but it tastes more like regular tofu. The store is a bit different from the souvenir shops, with a variety of items that give you more of a taste of the local life.
It stocks Iya soba, tofu, konnyaku and other ingredients unique to Oboke and Iya. One of the most eye-catching items is “bokeage.” It’s a big piece of aburaage (fried tofu), but it tastes more like regular tofu. The store is a bit different from the souvenir shops, with a variety of items that give you more of a taste of the local life.
Enjoy Local Gourmet Food on Weekends!
On Saturdays and Sundays, you can enjoy standing meals at the store. In addition to Iya soba, there are numerous menu items that fit perfectly with your trip, such as the famous bokeage, tofu, and “Unkaijiru,” a dish that uses bokeage and grated daikon to simulate a sea of clouds. A great chance to casually enjoy the taste of Oboke and Iya.
Enjoy Oboke Gorge from the Water! Be Enchanted by the Beauty of the Valley Reflected in the Water
At Oboke Gorge, the Oboke-kyo Sightseeing Boat is a must-ride.
It takes about 30 minutes to travel along the Yoshino River, giving you a wonderful chance to appreciate the sheer rock faces up close.
The reflections of the rock face on the water are spectacular, giving you a completely different view from on land. In addition to being able to see the gorge from below, the national roads and buildings passing overhead are also impressive. It is a calm, gentle boat ride, so it can be easily enjoyed by people of all ages.
It takes about 30 minutes to travel along the Yoshino River, giving you a wonderful chance to appreciate the sheer rock faces up close.
The reflections of the rock face on the water are spectacular, giving you a completely different view from on land. In addition to being able to see the gorge from below, the national roads and buildings passing overhead are also impressive. It is a calm, gentle boat ride, so it can be easily enjoyed by people of all ages.
A Land that Has Attracted Global Attention! Miyoshi Geopark and the Geological Beauty of Oboke
The Miyoshi Geopark in Miyoshi City is filled with a variety of attractions, including magnificent mountains, valleys, and stories behind the lives of the people who live there. Oboke, Koboke, and the Iya Valley are great representations of this vast area. The precipitous cliffs, created over the course of 200 million years and through intense geological activity, are considered throughout the world to have a geological beauty of exceptional value. The miraculous formation of these lands and their unique cultural landscapes are highly regarded internationally, and they are popular spots off the beaten track visited by many travelers from all over the world. The history of the earth itself is inscribed on the beautiful rock faces seen from the boat. Gazing at the scenery while taking in the grand story of the geopark will add a sense of romance to your boat trip. Learn more about Miyoshi Geopark here
Café & Gibier | Enjoy a Gibier (Wild Game) Burger Along with the Oboke Scenery
I had a Gibier Burger for lunch at Cafe & Gibier at the Roadside Station Oboke. The Iya gibier patty is very easy to eat, with almost none of the characteristics generally associated with game meat. It was a hearty burger that left me feeling satiated.
From the terrace seats overlooking the river and valley, you can enjoy not only local gourmet dishes but the view as well.
From the terrace seats overlooking the river and valley, you can enjoy not only local gourmet dishes but the view as well.
Enjoy a Superb View of Oboke from the “Earth’s Perspective.” A Fun and Educational Geotour
After first enjoying a dynamic view of Oboke Gorge from a sightseeing boat, I next joined the “Oboke Geo and Yokai Tour”(*) organized by the Miyoshi Geo-Guide Association.
Here you can learn about the formation of the strata, rocks, and the gorge itself, created by the Yoshino River over the centuries, by looking at the scenery up close and personal. The guides’ explanations are fun, informative, and peppered with comedy throughout. They doled out a series of tidbits that continually left participants full of surprise and kept smiles on their faces from start to finish.
*Tours are specially held. Contact them individually for courses and content.
*Tours are generally given in Japanese.
Here you can learn about the formation of the strata, rocks, and the gorge itself, created by the Yoshino River over the centuries, by looking at the scenery up close and personal. The guides’ explanations are fun, informative, and peppered with comedy throughout. They doled out a series of tidbits that continually left participants full of surprise and kept smiles on their faces from start to finish.
*Tours are specially held. Contact them individually for courses and content.
*Tours are generally given in Japanese.
Someone You Definitely Want to Meet!「Miyoshi Geo-Guide Association」
The Miyoshi Geo-Guide Association provides fun and easy-to-understand guided tours for understanding the connections between the land, history, culture, and daily life of Miyoshi, including the Oboke area. On the tour of the Oboke and Koboke areas, they use humor to teach you the “Why?” hidden throughout the scenery. If you want to gain a deeper understanding of Oboke than what you could get just by looking, there is no better option than to let them take you on a guided tour.
Walking Along Yokai Kaido, You Will See Yokai Everywhere!
Another attraction of Oboke is the yokai legends. If you cross Fujikawa Bridge and enter Prefectural Road 272, you will find yourself in a land of spirits known as the Yokai Kaido.
Wooden statues of local yokai are all along the road, seemingly watching your every move. Living next to steep mountains and rivers, these yokai and the stories behind them have been passed down through the generations as warnings to keep clear of dangerous areas.
While taking in the beautiful scenery, it is fun to keep an eye out for what kind of yokai will appear next.
Wooden statues of local yokai are all along the road, seemingly watching your every move. Living next to steep mountains and rivers, these yokai and the stories behind them have been passed down through the generations as warnings to keep clear of dangerous areas.
While taking in the beautiful scenery, it is fun to keep an eye out for what kind of yokai will appear next.
A Yokai You’ll Want to Meet! Yokai Kaido’s Konaki-Jijii
At the end of the Yokai Kaido is Konaki-Jijii, an iconic yokai of Miyoshi. Legend has it that when a traveler carrying an infant that had turned to stone on his back tried to put it down because the weight became unbearable, it just grew heavier in response. Next to the stone statue is a spot where fresh spring water flows abundantly. Cautiously keeping one eye on the yokai while drinking the famous water is an exciting pleasure unique to Oboke.
Meet Local Yokai at the Yokai Yashiki
If you want to learn more about the yokai along the Yokai Kaido, head to the Yokai Yashiki. It is a museum built by the locals to preserve for future generations the yokai legends that have been passed down throughout the years, and features a wide array of unique yokai. It has a charming and simple atmosphere that evokes a sense of nostalgia.
There are quizzes and traditionalkamishibai(paper plays), so both children and adults can enjoy meeting the yokai.
There are quizzes and traditionalkamishibai(paper plays), so both children and adults can enjoy meeting the yokai.
Summary
The dynamic landscape of Oboke Gorge features unparalleled beauty, with a clear, flowing river weaving through sheer rock walls. While the view from the sightseeing boat is delightful, learning about its geological origins and the local yokai legends handed down from generation to generation will take your experience to the next level. Enjoy local flavors, take a walk with a geo-guide, and search for yokai. Make your next destination Oboke, a land rich with the joy of discovery.
Recommend Spot
Vine Bridges in the Iya Valley [left]
Nagoro, the scarecrow village [Center]
Shiozuka Plateau [right]
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Nagoro, the scarecrow village [Center]
Shiozuka Plateau [right]