[Explore Shikoku, Meet the Locals: Part 2] Feel the wind as you travel around the islands. / Yumeshima Kaido, Ehime Prefecture


Found on the east side of Shimanami Kaido, Yumeshima Kaido connects four of Kamijima’s islands (Yugeshima, Sashima, Ikinajima, and Iwagijima) by three bridges (Yuge Ohashi Bridge, Ikina Bridge, and Iwagi Bridge). I set off on a special island-hopping journey, making my way through the beautiful scenery of the calm Seto Inland Sea and enjoying experiences, cuisine, and individuals unique to the islands.

I crossed the sea via ferry, and then traveled from island to island on an electric scooter. Along the way I was able to try my hand at smoking food and making pottery, enjoying the leisurely flow of “island time.”

Crossing the Sea to the Yumeshima Kaido

From Sunoe Port on Ikuchijima, which is located on the Shimanami Kaido, you can take a ferry to Okogi Port on Iwagijima. A cute little ferry awaits you! It looks like a theme park attraction, so even just riding it is exciting.
Once on the deck, you can enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of the Seto Inland Sea. As you take in the pleasant sea breeze, the port on the opposite shore rapidly comes upon you. It’s only a five-minute boat trip, but it appropriately sets the mood for your island journey.

Access and Transportation to the Yumeshima Kaido

Yumeshima Kaido can be accessed by boat

The ferry I used this time, from Sunoe Port on Ikuchijima to Okogi Port on Iwagijima, operates every 20 minutes, but ferries and high-speed boats are also available from Innoshima, Mihara City in Hiroshima Prefecture, and Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture. While there are municipal buses on the island, it is more convenient to use your own car or a rental bicycle if you want to enjoy touring the islands. *If you come with your own car, please use the ferry service.
 

 

Bring Your Favorite Ingredients and Try Making Smoked Food!

I next tried my hand smoking food at the “Smoking Kiln Workshop Tekkun-chan” on Ikinajima.
You are free to bring whatever ingredients you like. After drying the foods and arranging them on the rack, they are placed into smokers made by the owner himself, Mr. Hamada. The food is slowly smoked at around 40 to 50°C using a hot smoking method and cherry wood from the island. Once the food has been smoked, you can eat it on the spot or take it home to enjoy later.
Whether its cheese, eggs, shishamo smelt, jakoten, etc., a savory smoky aroma permeates every bite. Cheese in particular, has a flavor that exceeds all expectations! Part of the fun is seeing how the aroma and taste change depending on the ingredients, which will leave you asking yourself what you want to smoke next.

People You'll Want to Meet! (Mr. Hamada, Smoking Kiln Workshop Tekkun-chan)

The person who will guide you through the smoking process is Mr. Hamada, owner of the Smoking Kiln Workshop Tekkun-chan. When it comes to smoking food, one topic after another pops up; his inquisitiveness and love of the craft knows no bounds.
Sharing thoughts like “This goes well with smoked food” or “That would be an interesting food to try,” Mr. Hamada warmly welcomes everyone with open arms, and spending time with him will make you feel like you are visiting your relaxed island grandpa. Beyond the delicious smoked food, the conversations with Mr. Hamada make for an unforgettable experience.
 


 

Feel the Refreshing Sea Breeze! Touring the Islands with an Electric Scooter

If you want to feel the charm of the Yumeshima Kaido up close, I recommend touring the islands on an electric scooter. The exhilaration of riding along the coast while feeling the sea breeze is exceptional.
One of the unique features of the Yumeshima Kaido is how large bridges such as Yuge Ohashi Bridge and Ikina Bridge appear amidst the tranquil island scenery. The scenery shifts every time you cross a bridge, making the ride itself such an enjoyable experience. Along the way, you’ll find beaches with white sand and crystal clear blue waters, colorful breakwater art, and other places that tempt you to stop and take a look. Dropping by small shrines, you can even feel the nostalgic atmosphere of the islands on the Seto Inland Sea.

Setouchi Koryukan, A Perfect Base for Touring the Islands

Setouchi Koryukan, located right next to Yuge Port, is the base for ecotourism in Kamijima. If you want to leisurely tour the Yumeshima Kaido, I recommend renting a bicycle or electric scooter (*) here. There are also various hands-on experience programs (*) available, so you can personalize your trip by picking those that suit you.

*A driver’s license or moped license (limited to licenses that allow for driving in Japan, such as an International Driving Permit) is required for use. Advance reservation is recommended
*Information on various programs is available at the tourism association counter in the Setouchi Koryukan. Supported languages may vary depending on the program, so please make sure to check in advance.

Try Your Hand at Molding Clay, Connecting with the Earth and Clearing Your Mind

Next, I tried a pottery workshop on Yugeshima.
Instead of using an electric potter’s wheel, I used a manual one, shaping the bowl by pinching the clay with my fingers.
I started by centering the clay on the potter’s wheel, then I shaped it into a mound, made a hole in the center, and gradually stretched and thinned it out. It’s a simple process, but surprisingly difficult! Pinching the same part too much may make it too thin, or it may take on an entirely unexpected shape when you attempt to widen it. However, those happy little accidents are one of the charms unique to handmade works.
While I concentrated on the sensation of my fingertips feeling the clay, I became completely absorbed in the moment. Even if the shape turned out a little distorted, that just added to the character of this one-of-a-kind piece. Mr. Furukawa added the finishing touches and fired the completed piece, and I was able to have it delivered to my home at a later date.

*International shipping is also available (separate charges apply). Please contact the store for details.

People You'll Want to Meet! (Mr. Furukawa, Soubeegama)

Mr. Furukawa, a pottery artist at Soubeegama, will guide you through your pottery experience.
While carefully teaching the techniques, he also keeps the conversation light and easy with comments like “You’re just like a master” and “It’s beautiful so far.” If it doesn’t turn out the way you envision, his subtle advice will keep even first-timers at ease. Working with the clay is of course fun, and talking with Mr. Furukawa is also delightful. The whole experience will naturally bring a smile to your face.
 



 

Wrap Up Your Island Trip Souvenir Hunting at Limone Plaza

My last stop on the island tour was Limone Plaza in front of Iwagi Port (*). Inside you will find souvenirs unique to the islands, such as Iwagijima’s special citrus fruits and their processed products, and vegetables from local farmers.
My recommendation is the popular lemon cake. A lovely lemon flavor permeates the fluffy baked sweet, and the gentle sweetness makes you want to reach for another.
You will also want to check out the seasonal citrus fruits. Why not bring back a delicious taste of the island along with the memories of your trip?
*High-speed boats are available from Iwagi Port to Imabari Port in Ehime and Habu Port in Hiroshima.

The Locations I Visited and Recommended Spots


Kamijima Travel Guide (Kamijima Town Tourism Association)
feelings -Kamijima Eco Tourism-

Summary

While crossing the bridges that connect the islands, you can look out at the endless blue sea, stopping off at whatever spots catch your eye. Journeying along the Yumeshima Kaido, it is not just the destinations, but also the casual scenery along the way that will stick with you for years to come.
The fun times spent with the island locals you meet through activities like smoking food or making pottery will also leave a lasting impression.
Rather than simply admiring the beautiful scenery, it is by exploring the islands, trying new activities, and meeting the people that you will truly come to love the Yumeshima Kaido. For your next holiday, why not cross the sea and enjoy the “island time” of the Seto Inland Sea?