A journey following the footprints of Kobo Daishi (Kukai)
The journey around the 88 sacred sites where the famous monk Kukai (also known by his title, Kobo Daishi) engaged in ascetic practices is called the Shikoku Pilgrimage (Shikoku Henro). Originally, this was a pilgrimage made mostly by trainee monks, but now people travel with the goals of praying for health or memorial services for their ancestors, or engage in a journey with a tourist element—to find themselves or to travel around sacred sites and power spots. In this article, we answer questions asked by people who are taking on the Shikoku Pilgrimage for the first time, including “What is the Shikoku Pilgrimage?” We hope that you will make the most of a pilgrimage that suits you.
What is the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
The Shikoku Pilgrimage is a pilgrimage that takes you around 88 sacred sites created by Kukai (Kobo Daishi) on Shikoku around 1,200 years ago. It is said that you can obtain various blessings by visiting the 88 temples connected to Kukai, including removing the worldly desires in your heart and having your prayers granted. Generally, people carry out the pilgrimage in numerical order, from the first temple, Ryozenji (Tokushima Prefecture), to the 88th temple, Okuboji (Kagawa Prefecture). This method is called “jun-uchi.”
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You can also start from the 88th temple and work backwards!?
Making the journey starting from the 88th temple and finishing with the first is known as “gyaku-uchi.” Leap years are said to be years for gyaku-uchi, and legend still has it that if you make the pilgrimage in reverse order in such a year, you will encounter Kobo Daishi training on his jun-uchi pilgrimage. Plus, people also say that the blessings you will receive on this pilgrimage are triple those of the jun-uchi pilgrimage.
You can also start from the 88th temple and work backwards!?
Making the journey starting from the 88th temple and finishing with the first is known as “gyaku-uchi.” Leap years are said to be years for gyaku-uchi, and legend still has it that if you make the pilgrimage in reverse order in such a year, you will encounter Kobo Daishi training on his jun-uchi pilgrimage. Plus, people also say that the blessings you will receive on this pilgrimage are triple those of the jun-uchi pilgrimage.
What are the aims and benefits of the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
People on the pilgrimage have diverse goals. It’s no issue if each person has their own aim, whether that is “tsuizen kuyo,” to pray for the happiness of someone in the next world; “yoshu kuyo,” to pray for a peaceful afterlife for themselves while they are still alive; for self-discovery or healing; to refresh themselves; or for another reason. Another of the attractions of the pilgrimage is experiencing the warmth of the local people. There’s no need to be especially nervous when you start the pilgrimage—enjoy it with a light heart.
Go from here! Our recommendations for beginners or first-time pilgrims
Traveling around all the sacred sites once is known as “toshi-uchi,” but suddenly journeying around 88 locations is very hard work. Because of this, we recommend that your first trip is one that takes a shorter period of time. For example, you can travel around a single prefecture as a single area (known as “ikkoku mairi”) or complete parts of the pilgrimage on separate occasions (“kugiri-uchi”). There are also single-day routes, which might be the best option for your first time on the pilgrimage trail.
Tokushima City Gokasho Mairi (Tour of Five Temples)
It can take more than a month to travel around all 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage on foot. In Tokushima City, you can complete the Gokasho Mairi, which takes you around five temples that stand near each other (the 13th temple to the 17th temple). This is a pilgrimage that you can easily enjoy in a day, walking at a leisurely pace.
Zentsuji Nanakasho Mairi (Tour of Seven Temples)
If it is difficult for you to travel around all 88 temples, the Nanakasho Mairi is a pilgrimage route that can be completed in a day. It takes you around seven temples, from the 71st temple to the 77th temple, which are all located in the area of Zentsuji City, the birthplace of Kukai (Kobo Daishi). You can finish these visits in a day if you use a car or a bicycle, but if you are on foot we also recommend that you stay overnight in Zentsuji Temple’s shukubo (temple lodgings).
Tosan Godaiji Mairi (Agari Godaiji Mairi)
The Tosan Godaiji Mairi is a route that can be completed in about a day and a half on foot, or a day in a car; it takes you around the final five temples of the pilgrimage, from the 84th temple to the 88th temple. Why not experience tranquil scenery as you enjoy a gentle trip around five great temples?
Tokushima City Gokasho Mairi (Tour of Five Temples)
It can take more than a month to travel around all 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage on foot. In Tokushima City, you can complete the Gokasho Mairi, which takes you around five temples that stand near each other (the 13th temple to the 17th temple). This is a pilgrimage that you can easily enjoy in a day, walking at a leisurely pace.
Zentsuji Nanakasho Mairi (Tour of Seven Temples)
If it is difficult for you to travel around all 88 temples, the Nanakasho Mairi is a pilgrimage route that can be completed in a day. It takes you around seven temples, from the 71st temple to the 77th temple, which are all located in the area of Zentsuji City, the birthplace of Kukai (Kobo Daishi). You can finish these visits in a day if you use a car or a bicycle, but if you are on foot we also recommend that you stay overnight in Zentsuji Temple’s shukubo (temple lodgings).
Tosan Godaiji Mairi (Agari Godaiji Mairi)
The Tosan Godaiji Mairi is a route that can be completed in about a day and a half on foot, or a day in a car; it takes you around the final five temples of the pilgrimage, from the 84th temple to the 88th temple. Why not experience tranquil scenery as you enjoy a gentle trip around five great temples?
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Zentsuji Temple is the 75th temple of the pilgrimage, located in the area where Kukai (Kobo Daishi) was born. Here, they say you can travel around all 88 temples at once. Its Osuna-fumi Dojo (Sand-stepping Hall) contains copies of the objects of worship of each of Shikoku’s 88 Temples, and in front of these you’ll find sand gathered from the grounds of each of these temples. It is said that stepping on this sand to complete a pilgrimage gives the same benefits as traveling to each sacred site.
A pilgrimage of all 88 sites at once?! Zentsuji Temple’s Osuna-fumi Dojo
Zentsuji Temple is the 75th temple of the pilgrimage, located in the area where Kukai (Kobo Daishi) was born. Here, they say you can travel around all 88 temples at once. Its Osuna-fumi Dojo (Sand-stepping Hall) contains copies of the objects of worship of each of Shikoku’s 88 Temples, and in front of these you’ll find sand gathered from the grounds of each of these temples. It is said that stepping on this sand to complete a pilgrimage gives the same benefits as traveling to each sacred site.
When should I do the pilgrimage? When do you recommend?
We recommend you make your pilgrimage in spring (March to June) or fall (September to November.)
Generally, these seasons aren’t too hot or too cold if you are walking the pilgrimage trail, making it comparatively easy to walk. Achieving this pilgrimage in Shikoku, with its lush natural world, while enjoying the new greenery and cherry blossoms in the spring or the crimson leaves in the fall will surely leave you with wonderful memories.
Generally, these seasons aren’t too hot or too cold if you are walking the pilgrimage trail, making it comparatively easy to walk. Achieving this pilgrimage in Shikoku, with its lush natural world, while enjoying the new greenery and cherry blossoms in the spring or the crimson leaves in the fall will surely leave you with wonderful memories.
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There isn’t just one way of doing this pilgrimage. In addition to a walking pilgrimage completed on foot (Aruki-Henro) , we also recommend a driving pilgrimage in a car, a cycling pilgrimage (on which you can travel along the coast and enjoy beautiful scenery), or even traveling around on a tour bus. Why not look at feature articles that offer an assortment of information about traveling around Shikoku, and consider doing the pilgrimage and touring Shikoku?
You can download useful sightseeing maps for the Shikoku Pilgrimage below.
・Shikoku Henro_Pilgrimage to the 88 Sacred Places ・SHIKOKU MAP ・Shikoku 88 NAVI (our recommendation for traveling around by public transport) *Japanese Only
There are lots of ways of doing the pilgrimage: walking, by car, by train, cycling, on a tour bus, and more!
There isn’t just one way of doing this pilgrimage. In addition to a walking pilgrimage completed on foot (Aruki-Henro) , we also recommend a driving pilgrimage in a car, a cycling pilgrimage (on which you can travel along the coast and enjoy beautiful scenery), or even traveling around on a tour bus. Why not look at feature articles that offer an assortment of information about traveling around Shikoku, and consider doing the pilgrimage and touring Shikoku?
You can download useful sightseeing maps for the Shikoku Pilgrimage below.
・Shikoku Henro_Pilgrimage to the 88 Sacred Places ・SHIKOKU MAP ・Shikoku 88 NAVI (our recommendation for traveling around by public transport) *Japanese Only
How to visit a temple, etiquette and manners
Below, we’ve listed the normal order of a temple visit. Make your visit with a calm mind by doing things in the correct order. You can check the details on the official website of the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage Association.
(1) At the sanmon (gate): In front of the gate, face the hondo (main hall) and bow.
(2) At the mizuya (washing area): Purify your body by washing your hands and rinsing your mouth. Put on your wagesa (a traditional piece of clothing worn when on a pilgrimage) and ready your rosary (a tool used when praying or reciting the Nenbutsu).
(3) At the shoro (bell tower): Ring the bell
* Ringing the bell at the end of your visit is called “modori-gane,” and is considered bad luck.
(4) At the hondo (main hall): Insert your osamefuda name slip (something given to the temple as proof of your worship) or copied sutra (the act of hand-copying a sutra) into the designated box and offer a light or incense. After this, you should make a monetary donation. Place your hands together with your palms facing each other, and read a sutra with sincerity.
(5) At the Daishido (Daishi hall): Worship in the same way as you did in the hondo and read the sutra.
(6) At the nokyosho: Receive a stamp for your pilgrimage book (a stamp that proves your visit; fees apply).
(7) At the sanmon (gate): When you leave the gate, turn around and bow.
Etiquette is as important as the order of your visit. Feel good on your visit by being aware of the following points of note.
(1) Clothing when visiting a temple
...If you are visiting in regular clothing rather than the proper white clothing, you should avoid clothes that expose a lot of skin (e.g. tank tops, camisoles, shorts, miniskirts, sandals, etc.). It’s also useful to have a jacket or outer clothing that you can put on.
(2) If you are wearing a hat other than a sedge hat (“sugegasa”; a type of traditional hat, and a symbol of faith on a pilgrimage), take it off when you visit the temple or the nokyosho.
(3) You should light your offering yourself (e.g. when offering incense don’t borrow a flame from someone else).
(4) Don’t take your sedge hat or pilgrim’s staff into the toilet.
... the tools of a pilgrimage are sacred items.
(5) Don't grip the top part of the staff.
...The top of a pilgrim’s staff (kongozue) serves as a sotoba (a strip of wood or stone used to remember the dead in Buddhism; a grave marker), and represents the body of the Buddha, so you must not hold it.
(6) Don’t let your staff touch the ground on a bridge.
(7) Refrain from taking photos in areas where photography is prohibited.
(8) Do not ask to exchange money at a nokyosho.
...We recommend making sure you have plenty of change in advance for donations, etc.
(9) Wash your staff when you arrive at your accommodation.
(1) At the sanmon (gate): In front of the gate, face the hondo (main hall) and bow.
(2) At the mizuya (washing area): Purify your body by washing your hands and rinsing your mouth. Put on your wagesa (a traditional piece of clothing worn when on a pilgrimage) and ready your rosary (a tool used when praying or reciting the Nenbutsu).
(3) At the shoro (bell tower): Ring the bell
* Ringing the bell at the end of your visit is called “modori-gane,” and is considered bad luck.
(4) At the hondo (main hall): Insert your osamefuda name slip (something given to the temple as proof of your worship) or copied sutra (the act of hand-copying a sutra) into the designated box and offer a light or incense. After this, you should make a monetary donation. Place your hands together with your palms facing each other, and read a sutra with sincerity.
(5) At the Daishido (Daishi hall): Worship in the same way as you did in the hondo and read the sutra.
(6) At the nokyosho: Receive a stamp for your pilgrimage book (a stamp that proves your visit; fees apply).
(7) At the sanmon (gate): When you leave the gate, turn around and bow.
Etiquette is as important as the order of your visit. Feel good on your visit by being aware of the following points of note.
(1) Clothing when visiting a temple
...If you are visiting in regular clothing rather than the proper white clothing, you should avoid clothes that expose a lot of skin (e.g. tank tops, camisoles, shorts, miniskirts, sandals, etc.). It’s also useful to have a jacket or outer clothing that you can put on.
(2) If you are wearing a hat other than a sedge hat (“sugegasa”; a type of traditional hat, and a symbol of faith on a pilgrimage), take it off when you visit the temple or the nokyosho.
(3) You should light your offering yourself (e.g. when offering incense don’t borrow a flame from someone else).
(4) Don’t take your sedge hat or pilgrim’s staff into the toilet.
... the tools of a pilgrimage are sacred items.
(5) Don't grip the top part of the staff.
...The top of a pilgrim’s staff (kongozue) serves as a sotoba (a strip of wood or stone used to remember the dead in Buddhism; a grave marker), and represents the body of the Buddha, so you must not hold it.
(6) Don’t let your staff touch the ground on a bridge.
(7) Refrain from taking photos in areas where photography is prohibited.
(8) Do not ask to exchange money at a nokyosho.
...We recommend making sure you have plenty of change in advance for donations, etc.
(9) Wash your staff when you arrive at your accommodation.
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In Buddhism, there are 10 precepts that forbid evil deeds. These are teachings to keep in mind in everyday life, not just when on a pilgrimage. They are listed below:
1. Fusessho
I will respect the lives of all living beings and will not steal an unnecessary life.
2. Fuchuto
I will not steal the property of others, and will handle other people’s property with care.
3. Fujain
Sexual activities are to be valued, and it is important to consider them in moderation.
4. Fumogo
I will not tell lies or falsehoods; I will strive to speak the truth.
5. Fukigo
I will not use extravagant or unnecessary words; I will communicate directly with plain words.
6. Fuakku
I will not speak badly of others; I will strive to use words that are considerate of others.
7. Furyozetsu
I will not be duplicitous toward anyone; I will speak with a feeling of truth.
8. Fukendon
I will not be greedy or covet things; I will pass each day with feelings of gratitude.
9. Fushinni
I will control my anger and stay calm, and spend my time with amiable feelings.
10. Fujaken
I will rid myself of evil and mistaken thoughts, and interact with everyone with a peaceful mind and heart.
Juzenkai (10 Precepts)
In Buddhism, there are 10 precepts that forbid evil deeds. These are teachings to keep in mind in everyday life, not just when on a pilgrimage. They are listed below:
1. Fusessho
I will respect the lives of all living beings and will not steal an unnecessary life.
2. Fuchuto
I will not steal the property of others, and will handle other people’s property with care.
3. Fujain
Sexual activities are to be valued, and it is important to consider them in moderation.
4. Fumogo
I will not tell lies or falsehoods; I will strive to speak the truth.
5. Fukigo
I will not use extravagant or unnecessary words; I will communicate directly with plain words.
6. Fuakku
I will not speak badly of others; I will strive to use words that are considerate of others.
7. Furyozetsu
I will not be duplicitous toward anyone; I will speak with a feeling of truth.
8. Fukendon
I will not be greedy or covet things; I will pass each day with feelings of gratitude.
9. Fushinni
I will control my anger and stay calm, and spend my time with amiable feelings.
10. Fujaken
I will rid myself of evil and mistaken thoughts, and interact with everyone with a peaceful mind and heart.
What is pilgrimage clothing?
When we say the word “pilgrimage,” a lot of people may think of a style with white clothing, a conical hat, and a staff. These tools are not essential, but having them can change the way you feel, and help you enjoy a more authentic pilgrimage.
First, if you have the three-piece set of the sedge hat (“sugegasa”; a type of traditional hat made from plant materials, and a symbol of faith on a pilgrimage), pilgrim’s staff (“kongozue”; a staff used on a pilgrimage), and white clothing, your photo-worthy pilgrim’s fashion will be complete. There are a variety of other tools, including a wagesa (stole), rosary, and nokyocho notebook, which pilgrims present to be stamped and decorated with calligraphy after praying, and you can obtain all of these for around 10,000 yen. You can buy them from the first temple, Ryozenji, certain other temples, stores selling Buddhist alter equipment in Shikoku, and even online.
However, you don’t need to be especially particular about your style, and as long as you practice moderation, there is no issue if you wear general hiking clothes. We want you to visit without worrying, and enjoy your pilgrimage.
First, if you have the three-piece set of the sedge hat (“sugegasa”; a type of traditional hat made from plant materials, and a symbol of faith on a pilgrimage), pilgrim’s staff (“kongozue”; a staff used on a pilgrimage), and white clothing, your photo-worthy pilgrim’s fashion will be complete. There are a variety of other tools, including a wagesa (stole), rosary, and nokyocho notebook, which pilgrims present to be stamped and decorated with calligraphy after praying, and you can obtain all of these for around 10,000 yen. You can buy them from the first temple, Ryozenji, certain other temples, stores selling Buddhist alter equipment in Shikoku, and even online.
However, you don’t need to be especially particular about your style, and as long as you practice moderation, there is no issue if you wear general hiking clothes. We want you to visit without worrying, and enjoy your pilgrimage.
Stay in Shukubo (temple lodgings)!
Temple lodgings, or shukubo, were originally facilities where monks engaged in ascetic practices could stay. Now, lay visitors can also stay in them (advance booking needed). If you are staying in a temple, almost all the lodgings offer private rooms, so women can also use these with peace of mind.
Temple lodgings provide shojin ryori, or Buddhist vegetarian cuisine (healthy dishes made from vegetables, tofu, and grains, etc., without meat or fish) in the evening, and each dish gives a sense of respect for life and gratitude toward the land. If you stay in a temple lodging, you will generally sleep early and wake up early to participate in religious services; you will also receive shojin ryori for breakfast, gaining a feeling of refreshment in mind and body. Thanks to this, your steps will seem light when you walk to the next temple.
Shikoku also boasts a large number of hot spring inns and hotels where you can relax comfortably, and choosing a place to stay when you are enjoying your pilgrimage is another way of making the most of your trip.
As of January 2025, the following temples operate temple lodgings.
(Tokushima Prefecture)
・The 6th temple,Anrakuji
・The 7th temple, Jurakuji
・The 19th temple, Tatsueji *Book from one month beforehand
(Kochi Prefecture)
・The 24th temple, Hotsumisakiji
・The 37th temple, Iwamotoji
(Ehime Prefecture)
・The 44th temple, Osaiji *No official website
・The 58th temple, Senyuji
*Does not take bookings until after March. Mainly takes bookings from organizations from April onward.
*Booking for an individual is possible if the organization-based system has an opening.
(Kagawa Prefecture)
・The 75th temple, Zentsuji
Temple lodgings provide shojin ryori, or Buddhist vegetarian cuisine (healthy dishes made from vegetables, tofu, and grains, etc., without meat or fish) in the evening, and each dish gives a sense of respect for life and gratitude toward the land. If you stay in a temple lodging, you will generally sleep early and wake up early to participate in religious services; you will also receive shojin ryori for breakfast, gaining a feeling of refreshment in mind and body. Thanks to this, your steps will seem light when you walk to the next temple.
Shikoku also boasts a large number of hot spring inns and hotels where you can relax comfortably, and choosing a place to stay when you are enjoying your pilgrimage is another way of making the most of your trip.
As of January 2025, the following temples operate temple lodgings.
(Tokushima Prefecture)
・The 6th temple,Anrakuji
・The 7th temple, Jurakuji
・The 19th temple, Tatsueji *Book from one month beforehand
(Kochi Prefecture)
・The 24th temple, Hotsumisakiji
・The 37th temple, Iwamotoji
(Ehime Prefecture)
・The 44th temple, Osaiji *No official website
・The 58th temple, Senyuji
*Does not take bookings until after March. Mainly takes bookings from organizations from April onward.
*Booking for an individual is possible if the organization-based system has an opening.
(Kagawa Prefecture)
・The 75th temple, Zentsuji
It doesn’t stop with Shikoku’s 88 temples?! Next is Koyasan in Wakayama?
Finishing a trip around all 88 temples is known as “kechigan,” and is one option for completing the Shikoku Pilgrimage. However, there is in fact another path known as “mangan,” on which pilgrims travel to Wakayama Prefecture to pay their respects in Kongobuji Temple in Koyasan, established by Kobo Daishi. Visit Koyasan at the end of your pilgrimage, with feelings of gratitude to Kobo Daishi as the person who created it.
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“Dogyo ninin” (literally meaning “traveling together, two people”) refers to the idea that when you are on the pilgrimage, you are not alone: Kobo Daishi is always at your side, protecting you. This teaching shows the importance of living with gratitude for the people who are with you in everyday life, and the fact that you are not alone. Why not consider coming to pay your respects based on this?
“Dogyo ninin” and paying respects
“Dogyo ninin” (literally meaning “traveling together, two people”) refers to the idea that when you are on the pilgrimage, you are not alone: Kobo Daishi is always at your side, protecting you. This teaching shows the importance of living with gratitude for the people who are with you in everyday life, and the fact that you are not alone. Why not consider coming to pay your respects based on this?
Introducing all of Shikoku’s 88 temples at once!
Introducing Shikoku’s 88 temples all in one go!
See them on these pages:
・Halls of spiritual awakening (Tokushima prefecture): Temples 1 to 23
・Halls of ascetic practice (Kochi Prefecture): Temples 24 to 39
・Halls of enlightenment (Ehime Prefecture): Temples 40 to 65
・Halls of Nirvana (Kagawa Prefecture): Temples 66 to 88
See them on these pages:
・Halls of spiritual awakening (Tokushima prefecture): Temples 1 to 23
・Halls of ascetic practice (Kochi Prefecture): Temples 24 to 39
・Halls of enlightenment (Ehime Prefecture): Temples 40 to 65
・Halls of Nirvana (Kagawa Prefecture): Temples 66 to 88