Embrace spiritualism on Japan’s sacred nature trail: SHIKOKU GUIDE

Shikoku is the smallest of Japan's four main islands, but it delivers big on opportunities to get to know Japan's spiritual side and explore some of the country's strikingly beautiful natural areas. Divided into the four prefectures of Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima and Kochi, Shikoku can be reached by air, train, bus or ferry from Japan's major cities.

With its 88 temples and sacred sites, and origins dating back to the 8th Century, the Henro (Shikoku Pilgrimage) is an integral part of Shikoku's culture. It winds through all four prefectures, along suburban streets, peaceful country lanes, rugged coastal roads and forested mountain slopes. Come along on a journey through the cultural heart of Japan and delve into an authentic experience found only in Shikoku.

Though dedicated to different deities, all the sites have ties to the revered monk Kōbō Daishi (774-835, also known as Kukai), the central figure of the Henro and the founder of the Shingon School of Japanese Buddhism. Priests began visiting Shikoku after his death, followed by regular citizens during the Edo period (1603-1867), who walked the route seeking a cure for illness, as an expression of their faith or for sightseeing.

David Moreton, a Shikoku-based independent researcher from Canada who specialises in the Henro, explains:

"In the past, some of the sacred sites were Shinto shrines, and not all of the present-day 88 sites – which are now temples – belong to the same sect. While most are Shingon, there are a few temples from other sects, such as Zen."

You'll likely spot people dressed in the pilgrim's "uniform": white robes (hakue) symbolising purity of mind, a straw hat (sugegasa) and a colourful staff (kongozue). However, this attire isn't mandatory and many visitors wear regular clothes. The Henro also offers a glimpse into the spirit of osettai (helping and supporting one another), as local people extend hospitality and kindness to those on the pilgrimage route.

Walking the entire Henro takes about six weeks, though some pilgrims now opt for cars, bikes or public transport, and many tackle the route in sections. Moreton notes that even visiting a few of the temples can be highly rewarding. "Unlike popular temples in major cities, those on the Henro are seldom crowded and are in diverse locations," he says. "You can learn about the long history and culture of the Shikoku Pilgrimage."

Here is a selection of temples to consider for your Shikoku itinerary:

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Yakuōji (Temple 23) is an ideal choice for those curious about mindfulness in Buddhist culture. The temple honours Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha), who heals sickness and dispels misfortune. Yakuōji is reached by flights of stairs corresponding to the so-called "unlucky ages" – 33 for women, 42 for men. You may see people dropping a coin on every step as they climb the stone stairs in the hope that good luck will follow. The respective ages are based on the traditional Japanese method of calculating age, whereby a baby is considered one year old at birth, and everyone becomes a year older on the first of January. No matter how old you are, luck is certainly on your side at Yakuōji, where you can try activities such as Ajikan meditation (a practice from Shingon Buddhism) and calligraphy (copying of sutras) during your visit. Advance reservations are recommended.

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Kōbō Daishi studied Buddhist teachings in China for two years, and according to local legend, before his return in 806, he threw his ritual sceptre toward Japan and it landed in Ashizuri. Kongōfukuji (Temple 38) sits at the tip of Cape Ashizuri, the southernmost part of Shikoku and one of the most remote spots on the Henro. This impressive temple complex is surrounded by windswept pines and has a tranquil reflecting pond in the centre of the grounds. During its long history the temple enjoyed the patronage of emperors and other important figures. Make the most of your visit to the cape with an overnight stay, and enjoy attractions such as fishing, onsen (hot spring) bathing, hiking, stargazing and glass-bottom boat tours to see local marine life.

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Some special places take a little extra effort to reach and that's the case with Yokomineji (Temple 60), considered the most difficult of all the Henro temples to access. However, once you arrive and take in the atmospheric surroundings, you'll understand why people have been visiting for centuries. The area has long been a sacred spot for Shugendo (mountain asceticism), and Kōbō Daishi is believed to have practiced here in his youth. Yokomineji sits about halfway up Mount Ishizuchi, the highest peak in Shikoku, and the grounds are dusted with pink rhododendrons in May. Don't miss photogenic Hoshi-ga-mori, a panoramic spot about 600m from the main temple, where a torii gate stands at the edge of a cliff, flanked by cedar trees.

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Situated on Mount Unpen, this temple is the highest point of the entire Henro route at just over 900m above sea level. It's said that Kōbō Daishi made the journey up the mountain three times during his lifetime. Unpenji (Temple 66) is now accessible by ropeway for those who prefer an easier route, and you'll enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside on the way to the summit. The peaceful temple grounds are particularly beautiful when the vibrant autumn foliage lights up the forest. Another interesting feature of Unpenji is the more than 500 life-sized statues of Arhat (disciples of Buddhist teaching) scattered around the temple grounds. It's said that everyone can find their likeness among them, so be sure to search for your stone doppelgänger during your visit.

This is just a taste of what awaits along the Henro, where you can immerse yourself in the rich spiritual legacy that is uniquely Shikoku. Whether you take on the challenge of hiking or opt for easier methods of transport to get around, experience the Henro on your terms and in a way that works for you.